View code. Written in knockoutJS and styled with Bootstrap To use Run the app via a web server Enter your completed car setup Edit the setup changes as suggested by your "race engineer" If the current set up was taken in the dry, then use the weather selector to select the weather for the next session or vice versa.
Generate the adjusted setup! Future I intend to change the weather section so that you choose the current weather condition and the future weather condition. About A simple tool for converting batracer setups between wet and dry weather. Resources Readme. Releases No releases published. Posted 27 December - Posted 28 December - Posted 31 December - Posted 01 January - Posted 03 January - Posted 04 January - Posted 05 January - Posted 07 January - Posted 10 January - Originally posted by Nasty McBastard bugger it.
I just started up my last private game last night and everything else is mid season. I hadnt checked here for a while. Posted 26 January - Posted 27 January - Posted 03 February - Originally posted by Zippel Its an interesting little game Posted 04 February - Originally posted by Breadmaster Zippel, who are you in game? All rights reserved. Community Forum Software by IP. Javascript Disabled Detected You currently have javascript disabled.
Posted 03 October - BATracer Link Some of you may, others may not have heard of BATracer, the browser based racing game where you take control of a driver, complete set-up, devise strategies, and watch the races unfold, in competition against other online players.
The features are listed by the site as such: Features: Play as a driver competing to win the drivers championship Work with your team mate to secure the constructors championship Various carsets and race series, race in several series at once Paint your car and helmet! Setup your car for optimum speed select driving style and race strategy Changing weather conditions Different car, tyre and engine attribuites Safety cars Practice, qualifying and race Complete breakdown of the race results including commentary Circuit maps showing car positions at race end Graphs Championship analysis between teams, drivers and team mates Lap by lap track map replay FREE TO PLAY!
These carsets along with the others already in use make up an impressive list of championships all over the world. Posted 04 October - Am after getting a bit of a taste for this game and wouldn't mind an AtlasF1 Champ. Makarias is the clan leader. Posted 04 October - I don't do Clans, I can never manage to get my bum in a front running car, so struggle in the wins department. Great fun though, and have just today won the 3rd race on the trot racing a Ligier in , unfortunately I have 6 DNF's in the season, so with 1 race to go can't win this time either.
The Le Mans series is the most fun, I won a private of those once, and won Le Mans the race in a GT Corvette :- Fully loaded in public games right now, so will have to wait a couple of days to try the new car sets.
Is great fun. Posted 04 October - In 2nd place myself in F1 public series. Only 2 podiums away from unlocking pro licence. Posted 09 October - We're trying to fill up an F1 '99 grid! Anyone who is clean and sane is welcome! Players will need to be registered and logged in before they can enter the private game.
The game password is "fiona". Take care not to accidentally join a public game by mistake. Posted 09 October - Oh and if someone here likes to join our clan, feel free to PM me and I'll send you an invitation. We don't really do anything special with it, but at least we're not evil. Posted 09 October - I'm in Posted 10 October - I have a spare private slot free while I'm waitinf for the next round of WCoN so i'll head over and check it out! Posted 10 October - i'm in! Posted 11 October - I am in as well.
Plenty of seats left. Posted 13 October - no worries mate Posted 24 October - A story which is nice to tell and instructive. Just lost a Le Mans 24hr which would have saved a disaster season. It was a nightmare for both me and my teammate female coworker but slightly better for me.
I asked her to gamesit me for a couple of days and she complied. First of all, set the ride height. Lower the ride height to 44mm rear, and 22mm front. Now increase by 1mm each time, and continue to raise until the plank DOESN'T flash yellow when going through the fastest corner on the track make sure to test using the fuel load you are going to use in your race!
Having set the ride height, now you can add packers. Since you have set the plank so that it doesn't touch during the fastest corner, that means all the corners will be run on the springs. This is important as if the car is sitting on the packers when entering a corner it is the same as having all springs set to fully stiff - try it and see how difficult it is! You don't want that to happen. With the setting you got, the plank should only touch the ground on straights where you are going faster than you were through the fastest corner by "corner" I mean something like Eau Rouge or Suzuka's "R", not the long gentle curves of Hockenheim.
The front and rear are set separately - if the rear is softly sprung or less , set the packers to about 3mm less than the ride height. If the rear springs are quite stiff more than , try setting the packers to 2 or even 1 less than the ride height. Now test again. If you have handling problems, you know instantly that the car is sitting on the packers through the corner - that will give you problems. Otherwise, look at the performance data graphs, and study the suspension travel section along with the track map.
At the point you had the problem, see which springs were riding on the bump rubbers no suspension travel left - the line will be at the ZERO level , and then lower the packers for that spring by 1mm. Test again and repeat the adjustment until you have no problems. You now have a car with neutral balance achieved by the wings, springs and roll bars, that brakes in a controlled and efficient manner, and that doesn't scrape the ground and wear the plank.
More importantly, it goes around corners in a balanced, predictable manner. There is our final problem, the human factor. Your car may go around a constant corner smoothly, but corners are rarely constant, they are normally taken under braking or acceleration, or while angling the steering by different amounts.
Even more than that, YOU are not constant. You brake in a unique fashion, turn-in at a certain point, get back on the power differently. The speed you turn the wheel and how roughly or gently you treat the car, all these things make you unique.
The dampers allow you to take the car and adjust it not only for you, but adjust it for your style of entering a corner, leaving a corner, switching direction in a chicane, and much more. Not using the dampers correctly means you are mising out on a vital aspect of setup. Frighteningly complicated for many, actually the dampers are not too difficult to understand. What they are is enormously powerful in getting the car to respond exactly as you want it.
I say the dampers aren't too difficult, well, actually they are VERY difficult - until explained by an expert that is. I am no expert, but the aforementioned Doug Arnao is, and with our grateful thanks to Doug, we now hand over to him to explain all about dampers. What they are, what they do, and how to adjust them.
So you want to know about GP2's dampers, eh? Well hows about I just tell you what affects they have on a real race car and some basics on what they do and how they change the dynamics of a modern day formula car. As long as Geoff has modelled everything as real as possible, then they should work as advertised. Well, guess what?
Low speed and fast speed refer to the speed of the damper shaft relative to the damper housing, NOT to car speed. Springs, sway bars and wings give constant resistance or affect weight distribution through the ENTIRE length of a turn. This occurs because at different parts or what are called "phases" of a corner, different dampers and their travel are dominant at that point. This makes for a excellent way to adjust the corner entry and exit independent of each other, or to take a corner that is unbalanced from entry to exit, to one that is balanced ie: understeer on the way in - oversteer on the way out.
It's job is to keep the rubber on the ground over the various surface undulations. Travelling over a bump at speed causes a relatively large and "fast" movement of the damper shaft, and hence it's name. For fast speed adjustments, pick a bumpy turn at the particular track you're working on.
Always keep the fast rebound higher than the bump - 1. The stiffer the spring the stiffer the rebound setting. It is the fast rebound's job to resist spring pressure and unsprung weight wheel, tire, hubs, brakes etc when the suspension droops. Usually a setting of 2 times the fast bump works well in GP2.
Make sure the car likes "usable" kerbs, too. This may require softer settings than done in your bumpy turn test - everything is a compromise. It controls the dynamic weight transfer and overall motion of the main chassis relative to the track surface as the car is turned, slowed, and accelerated. The slow rebound usually ends up being higher than the bump, but can be at times Most fiddling will be done with the slow speed settings. First settle on a spring and roll bar setting using a constant radius neutral throttle corner.
Next do the "fast" bump adjustments as described previously, then fine tune with slow speed adjustments. First We'll need to understand the different cornering "phases" before we can make a decision as to what slow speed adjustments to make. Since weight is being transferred both forward and outboard, the outside front damper moves in bump and the inside rear damper moves in rebound.
The other two have minimal effects during this phase. This phase may or may not occur depending on the type of turn or driving technique. Weight is being transferred outboard and to the rear, so the outboard rear damper moves in bump and the inside front damper moves in rebound. The other two dampers are considered stationary. It's what happens in the middle of a chicane, as you flick the steering back away from the current cornering direction. As soon as the lateral acceleration passes back through zero, the turn reverts to a type 3 entry again.
Weight is being transferred inboard and to the rear. The outside front damper moves in rebound and the inside rear moves in bump. The others are considered stationary. These are the basics of how they work on real race cars and they seem to work correctly in GP2.
There are more complicated things they do in real life, like control the aerodynamic platform and downforce consistency by reducing excessive pitching and yawing. I doubt they've gone that far in the game, but if they have it's something else to look at. That's basically it for the setup, and as you can see it is not so difficult to understand. It is certainly frustrating at times as it all gels together or falls apart depending upon balance. Two setups can look utterly different and yet be equally quick depending upon how well each component complements or fights the other components and the driving style.
It also shows you why you cannot simply download a setup from the 'net and expect it to be quick. With effort you cn learn to drive it, but ultimately you will be compromising your own driving style and will be unable to express yourself with it that's a flowery way of saying "you'll be slower"!!
In closing this article we'll leave you with a few thoughts to work through on your own There's a box in "Advanced setup level 2" called "Symmetrical Editing", and it doesn't have to be used. Remember that circuits are clockwise or anti-clockwise in nature and your car will rarely require the same forces on each side. Almost every setup I've seen on the 'net is symmetrical, and this misses the opportunity for much more tuning. Remember that for dampers usually only TWO corners are in use at any one time, and adjusting symmetrically means you will adjust all four corners.
This may correct the problem you are working on but introduce another problem elsewhere on the circuit. Tune each corner separately if you can F7, SH and OL affect the setup. While I personally disapprove of driving aids, many people use them and it's important to realise that they will make a difference to the setup. Especially using "Steering Help" will allow you to run with a bigger differential between front and rear wing. Opposite lock help will allow a similar thing, the car will still breakaway and try to spin with high wing differential, but the program will help you catch the resulting spin.
F7 will affect spring and gearing settings. Return to the test phase. Generally make one change at a time and then go and try it out. Then go and tune some more. Sometimes you've tuned your chassis so much it sounds like an angelic choir, you're driving the wheels off the car and yet you can't make up any time. In these situations you can either switch the computer off and come back later, or you can make a radical change.
Maybe you've reached your limit with that setup, so change the basics. If you're running high downforce, change to medium or low, if the car is setup very soft then change to stiff springs and see if you can run any faster with a more responsive car. Make the change, balance the car again and see how you do. Well, that's it from this Sim Racing News guide, and we hope you'll find it useful.
There's an awful lot of work and testing gone into this, so we'd like to extend our thanks again to Doug Arnao who helped out so much. We think this is not only comprehensive but also accurate, but we're open to suggestions and criticism. If anyone has any suggestions for improvements or simply needs setup help, drop us a line and we'll try to help.
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