Posted June 25, The higher the number, the more cornering ability you'll have. This has a huge trade-off, so use it accordingly. For the differential: The on diff will affect how much traction you have in certain corners. It's all dependant on the track you're at. You will basically bin it in the wall if the on diff is open at all.
It took me a while to figure this out, but I noticed the higher the number was, regardless of what my brake bias was, the more uncontrollable the rear became when I slammed on them for a corner ex: turn 3, penultimate corner Australia. It helps alleviate lockups. For the suspension geometry: All tracks, except Singapore I believe, usually work best with the first two all the way to the right and the last two all the way to the right.
This maximizes top speed and stability. I tried messing around with this and got loads more turn in, but loads more tyre wear and oversteer in the process. That's never a good combination. Use this in both the dry and wet. For the suspension: The stiffness dictates how much the car suspension travels under braking, acceleration, cornering, and when riding the curbs the most important of the 4 in the game. While this can help cornering ability slightly, the higher the number, even by just one increment, can have detrimental effects on how your car handles curbs, which are useful to ride on when trying to minimize laptime.
Don't run higher than 4 on most tracks, 5 or 6 on the rest. Always remember to keep your rear suspension clicks lower than the front, otherwise you'll have oversteer problems. If you like a loose car, or the track is unbearable to drive with it lower, match them, but never go higher.
I've recently started using higher numbers so I can keep the downforce down even further. Sometimes you'll need to reduce these in order to control the car effectively in the wet. I'd go down one click on the front, and depending on the conditions, one or two in the rear. You will have a bad time if you aren't used to lots of oversteer, and a bad time in general with tyre wear.
I only let them match at Brazil, where cornering ability is crucial in the second sector and first half of the third sector. Play around with these. Keep in mind that the higher this goes, though, the lower your rear balllast will be usually not more than one to two clicks , and in some extreme cases, the lower your front wing. Generally you want to run a positive rake angle, meaning the rear ride height is higher than the front.
On most tracks my front ride height is at three, some I run two, and there was one instance where I ran one. Your rear ride height will usually be two clicks above whatever your front is. A few tracks require that gap to be three. In the wet, set your rear ride height to 11, and your front ride height to 11 - whatever the gap was originally, so for example if you were running ride height, it would go to If it was , it would go to You want to do this to avoid aquaplaning, which will cause serious over AND understeer and lockup issues.
The higher the ride height, the less likely you are to aquaplane when it's raining. But keep the overall rake angle the same. For the brakes: This is entirely dependent on your driving style.
If you like braking late, you'll want to use high braking pressures so you can effectively stop the car in time. Be warned though: you are prone to lockups this way. If you don't like that, you'll want to use a lower braking pressure. All suspension settings should be upped to 9.
Tweaking the anti-roll bar to your own personal taste would also be advisable, with a default of 9,4 providing a good jumping off point. A faster throttle map, coupled with lowered wing angles 1,2 , high brake pressure and some suspension modification 3,3,5,6 will give a better performance on the new Hockenheim track. Lowering the gearbox speeds helps to navigate the differences between the now shorter circuit. Marking the gearbox settings down works well for acceleration out of corners. Suspension settings of 1,1,7,9 and alignment of Complimenting this with a fast throttle map and high braking pressure can give you the necessary speed to compete during the straights while also propping up your cornering ability.
Lowest settings for aerodynamics 1,1 and low suspension settings 1,1,5,5 are integral. A high rear anti-roll bar 11 coupled with a fast throttle will be beneficial also. Camber and toe alignment tweaks are also necessary, preferably setting them at Part of the reason that the rear end will behave itself is down to the on-throttle differential setting.
This yields a good degree of mid-corner stability while still allowing the car plenty of rotation to help it through the tighter corners. As a result of this, you can get away with running slightly more camber than you would usually be able to do in the wet conditions. I tend to find that running the minimum toe settings is very effective at most circuits, and the Marina Bay is no different.
For the suspension itself, going for a very soft setup is the way to go. This prevents the car from becoming too twitchy and also helps you to ride the kerbs. Therefore, is what I would suggest you use. Brakes are always about personal preference.
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